THE PASHALIC OF JOANNINA.
Joannina is the chief town in a pashalic of the same name,
situated in Albania, a province near the northwest boundary of European Turkey. It owes nearly all the celebrity which it has attained, to the power and influence of Ali Pacha, who made it his residence. The town is not far from the eastern shore of the Adriatic, and is in the immediate vicinity of some of the Ionian Islands.
At a distance of about sixty miles north-west of the Morea, a small gulf branches out from the Adriatic, called the Gulf of Arta; at the entrance of which is a commercial town of some importance, called Prevesa. Forty miles northward of Prevesa stands the town of Joannina, the approach to which, from the south, is described by travellers as being very beautiful. Dr. Holland thus describes the scene which presents itself, when the traveller has approached within two miles of the city.
A large lake spreads its waters along the base of a lofty and precipitous mountain, which forms the first rid»e of Pindus, on this side, and which, as I had afterwards reason to believe, attains an elevation of more than 2500 feet above the level of the plain. Opposed to the highest summit of this mountain, and to a small island which lies at its base, a j>eninsula stretches forward into the lake from its western shore, terminated by a perpendicular face of rock. This peninsula forms the fortress of Joannina; a lofty wall is its barrier on the land side; the waters which lie around its outer cliffs, reflect from their surface the irregular, yet Splendid outline of a Turkish seraglio, and the domes and minarets of two Turkish mosques, environed by ancient cypresses. The eye, receding backwards from the fortress of the peninsula, reposes upon the whole extent of the city, as it stretches along the western borders of the lake:—repose, indeed, it may be c.Uled, einoe both the reality and the fancy combine, in giving to the scenery the character of a vast and beautiful picture, spread out before the sight.
The length of the lake, on the borders of which the town of Joannina is situated, is about six miles, and its greatest breadth two; but at the point where the peninsula juts out into the lake, the breadth of the latter is very small. The city extends along the greater part of the western shore of the lake, and stretches, in width, from the lake to a row of low eminences, about a mile and a half distant from it. The interior aspect of the town is said to be rather gloomy, except at some particular spots. The streets are very tortuous, so as to give a stranger a great deal of embarrassment in rea Ling any destined part of the town; and those in which the lowest classes of the inhabitants dwell, contain little but wretched mud-built cottages, and are in the outskirts of the city. The habitations of the middle ranks make a nearer approach to comfort, being constructed of wood, with a small open gallery under the projecting roof; altogether dissimilar to the cottages of Switzerland. The dwellings of the higher classes, both Greeks and Turks, partake more of an Oriental character, being quadrangular structures surrounding an open court, and having wide galleries running round the sides: the construction of these houses is such as to be extremely convenient in a warm climate; but, externally, they have more the appearance of prisons than of houses, for they present little more to the eye than lofty walls, with massive doul building.
The bazaars form, in Joannina, as well as in other Turkish towns, the most bustling and attractive feature in the place. They consist of ten or twelve streets, intersecting each other at irregular angles: they are narrow, and are rendered rather dark by the low projecting roofs, and by the large wooden booths in which the goods are exposed for sale. Each bazaar is appropriated to the sale of one particular class of goods; for instance, there is one occupied by those who deal in jewellery, and other ornamental articles; a second, by the dealers in pelisses, Turkish shawls, and other articles of dress; a third, by the retailers of common cotton goods; a fourth, by the dealers in grocery, tobacco, dried fruits, tvc.; a fifth, by those who sell hookah and Meerschaum pipes, wooden trinkets, &c; a sixth, by the dealers in coloured leather, and Turkish slippers; and one or two others. Some of these bazaars, especially those in which jewellery and articles of dress are sold, are richly and abundantly furnished.
Joannina contains sixteen mosques, each standing on an open space of ground, and generally surrounded by large cypresses.
There are also about seven or eight Greek churches, Joannina being the seat of a Greek archbishop.
The seraglios, or palaces of the pacha, are very large ind important buildings. The chief one is lofty in itself, and situated on the most lofty spot in the city: it is
ywal . sive double gates, and windows (if any) at the top of the
principally built of wood, but is supported and surrounded by high and massive stone walls, on different parts of which cannon are mounted. The palace itself is built entirely in the Turkish style, with roofs projecting far beyond the face of the building; windows disposed in long rows underneath; and walls richly decorated with paintings, occasionally landscape, but more generally what is merely ornamental, and without any uniform design. The entrance to the seraglio is very mean, being under a broad wooden gateway, within which is a large irregular area, two sides of which are formed by the buildings of the seraglio. On crossing this area, a dark stone staircase leads to an outer hall, from which an entrance leads into a long and loity apartment, contiguous to the audience chamber of the pacha. This last mentioned apartment is decorated in a somewhat gaudy style, the prevailing colours, as well of the walls and ceiling as of the furniture, being crimson, blue, and yellow. The ceiling, is divided into squares by woodwork very curiously and delicately carved, the interior of each square being decorated in crimson and gold. Pilasters are arranged at equal distances round the walls, and on these are hung sabres, daggers, pistols, &c, all profusely ornamented with gold and jewels. A carpet covers the floor; and round three sides of the room arc ranged divans, or platforms, about fifteen inches high, and covered with cushions of crimson satin. A hearth, for burning wood fuel, is situated at one side of the room, and over it is a projecting chimney, rising in the form of a conical canopy, superbly ornamented with gilding. This description of the style of decoration iu the audience chamber, will serve to convey a general idea of all the state apartments, in which a strange mixture of gaudiness and barbarity is observable, but very little real taste.
Perhaps the most beautiful structure in the town is the pavilion of the pacha, situated in the northern suburb. This pavilion is in the middle of a garden, and consists of a great saloon, two hundred and forty feet in circumference : its outline is not a perfect circle, but is formed by the curves of four separate areas or recesses, which are all open to the great circular area that occupies the centre of the building. The curve of each recess contains nine windows; and there arc two also at the entrance into the pavilion. The pavement is of marble, with a large and deep marble basin in its centre: in the midst of this basin stands the model of a pyramidal fortress, mounted with numerous cannon, from each of which a jet d'eau issues, meeting the other jets from cannon on the outer circumference of the basin. Attached to one of the pillars of the pavilion is a small organ, which plays while the water is flowing.
The peninsula, of which we have before spoken, widens as it advances into the lake, and is terminated by two distinct promontories of rock; on one of which stands a large Turkish mosque, its lofty minaret, and extensive piazzas, shaded by the cypresses surrounding it. On *he other promontory is situated the old seraglio of the pachas of Joannina, inhabited by them previous to the erection of the one which we have described, but now chiefly inhabited by officers and soldiers of the pacha's guard The whole of the peninsula is fortified, so as to form a little town in itself, insulated from the rest of the city by a lofty stone wall, and a broad moat which admits the waters of the lake.
The banks of the lake arc studded with numerous objects of a picturesque nature, such as the Great Seraglio, which seems to rise directly from the shore; a painted kiosk, projecting over the water, below the rocks of the old seraglio; a convent of dervishes, shaded by trees, towards the north. But the most attractive object is one which owes nothing to the hand of man, viz., the mountain ridge which backs the city, and which rises to a height of nearly three thousand feet: this range forms a continuous boundary to the valley in which the lake is sttuated, rising from the water's edge, in the part opposite to Joanuma, with an abruptness and majesty of outline which has nrcrch of the sublime m it: its precipitous front is intersected by the ravines of mountain torrents, tho borders of which, expanding as they approach the lake, are covered with wood, and form the shelter to many small villages.
The take is rather inconsiderable in depth, and is terminated at each extremity by low marshy land; there is an outlet towards the north, by which the water of the lake flows to another small lake abont six miles distant from the citv. The water which thus flows from one lake to the other, after having passed through the second lake, suddenly enter? a subterranean passage underneath some limestone hills, and appears again at a considerable distance. The supply of water to both lakes, is derived from springs, and from the various mountain torrents which descend into them.
There is a considerable amount of trade carried on at Joannina. The chief article of importation, is cloth of French and German manufacture: this reaches them by way of Leipsic, and the demand for it is very considerable, since all the rich Greeks and Turks, not only in Albania, but also in parts of Roumclia, and the Morea, purchase at Joannina tho cloth for their loose robes and winter pelisses. Within the last few years, English cloths have also found a market at this place. The articles of exportation are, oil, wool, corn, and tobacco, for the Italian ports; and for inland circulation, through Albania and Roumclia, spun cottons, stocks of guns and pistols mounted in chased silver, embroidered velvets, stuffs, and cloths. Large flocks of sheep and goats, and droves of cattle and horses, are collected from the Albanian hills, and sold at an annual fair held near the town: the horses are generally sold again to inhabitants of Albania; but the cattle, sheep, and goats, usually go to the Ionian Islands.
In concluding this slight description of Joannina, we must remark that the town was the scene of many desperate conflicts between the Turks and the Albanians, during the latter part of the life of Ali Pacha, and that these contests have probably made some alterations in the buildings and arrangement of the town; but as there have been very few recent travellers to that part of Turkey, we are not exactly in a position to state what these changes or alterations may have been. Everything relating to the natural beauties of the spot, must, however, be nearly or quite the same as they were before, whatever be the turmoils and strifes of ambitious men: the palaces and houses made by men, may be destroyed by them; but the mountains and valleys remain, enduring witnesses of the power of the Great Creator who formed them.
Love Of Home.—Whatever strengthens our attachments is favourable both to individual and national character. Out home,—our birth-place,—our native land ! Think for a while what the virtues are which arise out of the feelings connected with these words ; and if thouhadst any intellectual eyes, thou wilt then perceive the connection between topography and patriotism. Show me a man who cares no more for one place than another, unci Twill show you in the same person one who loves nothing but himself. Beware of those who are homeless by choice! You have no hold on a human being whose affections are without a tap-root. Vagabond and rogue are convertible terms; and with how much propriety, any one may understand who knows what are the habits of the wandering classes, such as gipsies, tinkers, and potters.—The Doctor.
The history 01 creation is, itself, the history of God's government; and nothing short of absolute idiotism, rather than mere ignorance, could believe it possible that this incalculably complicated, multifarious, and inconceivably extended universe, could preserve it» order without a government.—Ilaccuiaoch. _,
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